SEVILLA LIFE

 AS YOU MIGHT EXPECT, LIFE IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT IN SEVILLA...especially for a Canadian who's used to driving to the store for groceries, to dance classes, or to just about anywhere. Here, we walk, and it's a much healthier and amenable lifestyle. The street I've portrayed here is typical of our neighbourhood in Santa Catalina and of Seville in general. Surprisingly, I don't feel hemmed in or crowded. These narrow alleys are homey and quite comforting. People are nearby. You can hear them chatting (or arguing) from their windows. You might pass one of two of them as you make your way down the street. Bars and restaurants are tucked everywhere - on the main roads and in alleys such as this.

We're getting used to the siesta, and the opening and closing times of stores, restaurants, and bars. We tend to buy groceries about every day - our apartment is small, and we don't have much in the way of storage, so shopping has become part of our daily schedule. Today, being Sunday, we went for a stroll down to the La Alameda de Hercules and found Sevillanos enjoying the sun beneath umbrellas along its length. There were people dancing Sevillanas, blasting over loud-speakers at one end, and a small set-up of kiddie rides for los niños. We stopped for a sangria, and then checked out the outdoor flea market, figuring we'd have time to pick up groceries for Sunday's dinner.

Nada. The local grocery was closed, so we headed for Sierpes, a major road and tourist destination. Bets were off if we'd actually eat. It was possible that we'd have eggs and lemon-aid for supper, but luckily there were still restaurants open, catering to tourists. We ended up at Don Carlos. The food was great.

The local bars keep odd hours. One, that's just down the street from us, caters to the local machos. I've never seen a woman in there. There's some guy who 'howls' around closing time around 2:00 a.m. I guess he isn't happy with having to stumble home. Luckily, he doesn't carry on for too long. We've taken to calling him our local howler.

There also seems to be an etiquette to not looking up at people if they're on their balconies. We use our tiny balcony to drink wine and eat tapas (there's just room for the two of us, two chairs and a table), or to hang our laundry. Whenever I'm out there and someone is passing beneath, they never look up. Ditto when someone is on a higher balcony than ours. They never look down. I suppose in a place that's as populated as this, social niceties are meant to be followed.

People dress really well here. The women are often in dresses and skirts, cool pantsuits and great shoes. You won't find anybody in sweat pants or ratty t-shirts here.

Dance is going well. I look forward to my class tomorrow morning. Such a difference from a week ago, where I was facing my first class with trepidation.

The weather's been great. I'm really enjoying the extended summer. The nights are soft, warm, and sultry. I love Sevilla. Feel so lucky to be here.

Until mañana, , olé! - Susan.